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“Our leader forever” was a slogan one often saw in Syria during the era of President Hafez al-Assad, father of today’s Syrian president.
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The prospect that the dour, stern Syrian leader would live forever was a source of dark humor for many of my Syrian friends when I lived and worked in Aleppo in the late 1980s and early 1990s.Hafez al-Assad died in June 2000. He wasn’t immortal after all.
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His regime, however, lives on under the leadership of his son Bashar al-Assad.There were moments when the Bashar regime’s survival looked in doubt. When the so-called Arab Spring rolled across the region in 2011, toppling autocrats in Tunisia, Egypt and Libya, and mass protests broke out in Yemen, Bahrain and Syria, some began to write epitaphs for the Assad dynasty.
But Syria’s allies – Iran, Lebanon’s Hezbollah and Russia – came to the rescue. For the past few years the struggle in Syria between a corrupt, brutal regime in Damascus and a divided, often extreme opposition seemed frozen in place.
Once shunned by his fellow Arab autocrats, Bashar al-Assad was gradually regaining the dubious respectability Arab regimes afford one another.
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The ancient Lycians knew a thing or two about democracy. Two thousand years ago, the one-time rulers of modern-day Turkey’s southwestern corner had a fully functioning democratic federation that centuries later inspired America’s political structure.While democracies everywhere might be facing turbulent times, another Lycian legacy remains steadfastly present in the Mediterranean region they used to call home. And this one is focused almost entirely around death.
Drive around the coast of this beautiful region and you’ll never be too far from a spectacular city of the dead – elaborate tombs carved by Lycians into the sides of cliffs overlooking towns, valleys and shorelines.
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That’s not all. Scattered throughout the countryside and towns are imposing sarcophagi that likely once held the remains of high and mighty denizens of Lycia. Indeed, they’re such a familiar sight that they’re often casually included as part of urban landscapes.For visitors, especially those interested in history, tracking them down is an adventure all on its own.
While some are preserved in ticketed archaeological sites, others are free to explore — but can require Indiana Jones-level exploration skills, clambering up vertiginous hillsides, riding boats and delving into the undergrowth to find.
A good starting place is Fethiye, a low-key port city that’s a useful jumping-off point for great beaches and attractions all along Turkey’s so-called Turquoise Coast riviera. After a day of swimming in those glorious waters, it’s worth a sunset trek to the overlooking cliffs.
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